Jun 02, 2023

How to Install the Wood Slat Room Divider from Andor Willow

Our floor-to-ceiling wood slat room divider was designed to be beautiful, functional, and easy to install. It was also designed in such a way that it can be removed and endlessly reinstalled without damaging the product itself, or the floor and ceiling around it.

Every order of the Room Divider includes the necessary hardware, which includes both floor and ceiling pins.

The ceilling pins are spring-loaded, while the floor pins are a threaded pivot bolt that allows each slat to rotate 360º.

The hardware allows you to "open" or "close" the room divider with ease, allowing light and air to pass through or closing the room off for more privacy, if desired.

There are two installation methods: the first uses included "floor plates" and "ceiling plates" to hold the pins in place, and is best for drywall surfaces.

The second doesn't use the plates, instead inserting the pins directly into your floor and ceiling. The pros and cons of each are detailed below.

If you'd like to speak with our team about specific questions, please contact us. We look forward to helping you with your project!

1. Tools Needed for Both Installations

2. Which Installation Method is Right For You?

3. Installation Method #1: Using Floor and Ceiling Plates

4. Installation Method #2: Drilling Directly Into Floor and Ceiling

Tools Needed

Tools recommended for both installations.

Laser Level
Measuring tape
Level
Pencil
Drill
Phillips head screwdriver bit

Which installation method is right for you?

There are two recommended ways to install your Wood Slat Room Divider from andor willow. Which installation is right for you and your space depends on a number of factors, including but not limited to the following:

1. What material is your floor and ceiling?

Floor and ceiling plates are included to provide a solid piece for the included Spring-Loaded Pin and Threaded Bolt Pin (which will be attached to the top and bottom of each slat) to fit into.

These plates are usually required when your ceiling is made from a non-solid material, such as drywall or plaster.
These plates are not necessarily required if your ceiling is made from a solid material like wood, concrete, or MDF paneling.
For floors, the included floor plates should be used if the floor is made from a non-solid flooring material, like vinyl.
The floor plates are not required if your floor is a solid material like hardwood, engineered hardwood, or concrete, but in our experience, they do make for a simpler installation.

2. How hidden do you want the hardware to be?

Installation Method #1 makes use of the included floor and ceiling plates, which are 7mm in height. Therefore, there will be at least a 12-15mm gap between the bottom of the slats and the floor, as well as the top of the slats and the ceiling when you opt for this installation method.
Installation Method #2 does not use the floor or ceiling plates. Instead, you drill shallow holes directly in your floor and ceiling for the slat hardware (floor and ceiling pins) to fit into.

This allows the wood slats to sit very close to the floor and ceiling, making for the most low-profile installation.
This installation method will only work if your floor/ceiling is made from solid materials like wood, concrete, MDF, etc. This will not work on drywall or plaster ceilings.

3. What size of hole are you comfortable drilling into your floor and/or ceiling?

If your floor is made from a solid material and you’re thinking about avoiding the floor plates, consider this:

Floor plates drilled into your floor with the included floor screws will leave behind a small hole that is about 4mm in diameter, and about 16mm deep.
If you opt to avoid the floor plates, you will need to drill holes directly in your floor/ceiling for the slat hardware to fit into, which will be about 8mm in diameter, and about 4mm deep.

4. How experienced is the person installing the slats?

Installation Method #1 is the easier of the two, as it does not require specific-sized holes to be drilled in the floor and ceiling for the slat hardware to fit into. Instead, the floor and ceiling plates just need to be fastened in place with the included screws. This installation method is suitable for novice-intermediate DIYers. If you have used a drill and drywall anchors in the past, you will be able to comfortably install the slats if you carefully follow the instructions.

Installation Method #2 is best suited for intermediate-advanced DIYers or professional installers. This installation methods require drilling accurate holes into the floor and ceiling with an 11/32” drill bit.

Installation Method #1: Using Floor and Ceiling Plates

This installation method:

Only requires a small hole to be drilled into your floor and ceiling for each slat
Leaves behind minimal holes and allows the slats to be easily moved or removed without sacrificing on its stability

Extra Tools Required:

Stud finder
Drywall anchors for the ceiling

Acceptable Ceiling Heights for the Slats in Their Out-Of-The-Box Length:

Because the hardware is extendable (by threading out the Threaded Bolt Pin (Part #2)), there’s a range of ceiling heights that will work with the slats in their default length. Of course, the higher the ceiling, the more space there will be between the slats and the floor/ceiling after installation.

240cm slats:

Acceptable ceiling height range: 95.7” - 97.25” (243cm-247cm)

270cm slats:

Acceptable ceiling height range: 107.5” - 109” (273cm-276.85cm)

Cutting the Slats to Size

This installation method requires a minimum of 1.2” (3cm) of total clearance to allow the wood slat hardware to fit inside the floor and ceiling plates.

Measure Your Ceiling Height

Even if you know your home to have 8’ or 9’ ceilings, ALWAYS measure the exact height before starting your installation. Flooring, drywall, and other factors can impact the exact height of your ceiling, which will impact your installation. Once you’ve measured your ceiling height, and calculated the required slat length based on the formula below, mark the cutting location(s) on your slats and use a mitre saw or circular saw to cut them to the required length (if needed). Use a track guide or speed square for the straightest cuts.

If your ceilings are less than 95.7” (or 107.5” for the 270cm slats) in height, you will need to cut the slats down to length.

If you don’t cut the slats short enough, installation will be more difficult or even impossible, because the pins won’t have enough clearance to fit inside the plates. If you cut the slats too short, they will not span the required distance from floor to ceiling, making the installation impossible.

Measure twice, and cut once!

IMPORTANT CALCULATION:

Your Ceiling Height - 1.2” = optimal slat length.

(1.2”/3cm clearance needed)

For example, if your ceiling is 95” in height, you’ll want to cut the slats down to be 93.8” in length (95 - 1.2 = 93.8).

NOTE: The pre-drilled holes at each end are 4cm deep and 10mm in diameter. The hardware needs 1” (2.6cm) of depth to fit properly, so if you remove more than 0.55” (1.4cm) from either end of the slats, you will need to drill extra depth into the centre hole of each slat with a 7/16” drill bit.

Beginning the Installation: Fastening the Pins & Bolts

To begin, use a screwdriver or drill to fasten one Spring Loaded Pin (Part #1) into the end of each wood slat. Use two (2) of the Long Screws (Part #5) per bolt to fasten them to the wood slats.
Repeat this process with the threaded bolt pins, attaching one to the opposite ends of each slat, so that each slat has one (1) threaded bolt fastened to the bottom, and one (1) spring-loaded pin fastened to the top.
The slats do not have a distinct top or bottom, whichever you decide to be the top or bottom is your choice.
Once each slat has its hardware attached, you can begin to lay out where the Floor/Ceiling Plates will be fastened.

Decide on Slat Spacing

Each slat is 120mm wide. To comfortably rotate the slats 360º, while still having them as close together as possible in the “closed” position, the slats need about 1mm of clearance between them on each side. Given this, the holes for the hardware in your floor and ceiling need to be at least 122mm apart.
One pre-drilled hole guide is included in each box, and has been CNC drilled with holes exactly 122mm apart to help you drill evenly-spaced holes.

ALWAYS measure the distance between the holes and ensure they align with the above drawing. While we have rigorous quality control standards to ensure accuracy, slight variations can happen and should be caught before you start drilling using the guide.
The slats don’t necessarily need to be this close together, you can also install them further apart for more of an “open” installation if preferred. If you prefer to install them further apart, simply decide on the optimal distance between each slat and drill evenly-spaced holes accordingly.

Marking The Floor And Ceiling Plate Positions

Start by placing your laser level on the floor and casting a level line from the floor to the ceiling above.
Once you’ve decided on the installation location, take the plywood template and place it along the floor. Ensure the laser level’s line is running through the centre of the 4 holes. If needed, tape it in place to prevent any movement.
Once the template is firmly in place, use a pencil to lightly trace each of the 4 holes on the floor, marking where each of the floor plates will be placed.
Repeat this process on the ceiling, putting the template in place and lightly tracing inside each of the 4 holes on your ceiling, to mark where the ceiling plates will be placed.
To test if your drawn circles are in the right place to create a level installation, you can hold one of the slats in place, aligning the top and bottom pins with their respective circles on the floor and ceiling. You can thread the bolt outwards to elongate it if the hardware doesn’t span the entire ceiling height in its current form.
Once the pins are aligned with the circles, use your level to ensure the slat is straight If it’s sitting straight, you’re ready to proceed to the next steps. If not, you may have made a mistake. Take a moment to repeat the previous steps to ensure everything’s aligned.
Now that the position of the Floor/Ceiling Plates has been confirmed, you can begin fastening them in place.
Beginning with the floor, use a small drill bit (1/8” recommended) to drill pilot holes in the floor in the middle of the circles you marked previously. The pilot holes don’t need to be any deeper than 1/4”.

Fastening Ceiling Plates

Repeat this process for the ceiling plates. Before drilling into your ceiling, always consult with your local contractor or building professional to ensure you will not be drilling into wiring, plumbing, or other critical parts of your home. If drilling into drywall, you will need drywall anchors to properly secure the screws and hardware.

The Long Screws (Part #5) included with each hardware kit are #8 size screws. They have an external diameter of 5/32” (3.96mm) and are 1 1/2” in length.
We recommend purchasing drywall anchors that are rated for 50lbs or more and sit flush with the wall/ceiling.
Always follow the manufacturer's instructions when installing and using drywall anchors.

Align the floor and ceiling plates with the holes you drilled, and use the included screws to fasten them.
The 4 Short Screws (Part #4) included in the hardware kit are for the floor. The longer ones are for fastening the hardware to the wood slats, and for fastening the plates to the ceiling.

Fit the Slats Inside the Plates

Now that the hardware is inserted into the slats and the floor and ceiling plates have been fastened in place, you’re ready to finish your installation.
To start, ensure the threaded bolts in your slats are in their shortest position (fully threaded inside the slat).
With the help of another person, fit the bolt inside the floor plate.
Once that’s in place, hold the spring-loaded pin in its shortest position, to allow it to fit inside the ceiling plate.
While holding the pin down, align the pin with the ceiling plate, before releasing the pin into its natural position and allowing it to fit inside the ceiling plate.
Using a 13mm wrench, you can now tighten the threaded bolt at the bottom of the slat to push the slat upwards from the floor (if desired).
Installation Method #2 - Direct Holes

This installation method can only be followed when:
- The ceiling material is solid, like concrete, wood, or MDF panelling. This installation method is NOT recommended if the ceiling is drywall or plaster.
- The floor material is solid, such as hardwood flooring, engineered hardwood, or concrete. This installation method is NOT recommended if the flooring is vinyl.
This installation method will make for the most low-profile installation, as the pins on the top and bottom of each wood slat are being inserted directly into the floor and ceiling, rather than into the provided floor/ceiling plates.

This installation method increases the potential for increased wear-and-tear on your floor and ceiling, as the wood slat hardware is being inserted directly. Excessive rotating/spinning of the wood slats, or lateral pressure applied to the wood slats can cause damage to the floor or ceiling over time if this installation method is followed.

Extra Tools Required:
- 11/32” drill bit (8.73mm diameter)
Cutting the Slats to Size

This installation method requires a minimum of 0.8” (2cm) of clearance to allow the wood slat hardware to fit inside the floor and ceiling holes.

This means that for the most low-profile installation, you’ll want the slats to be 0.8"/2cm shorter than your ceiling height.

Because the wood slat hardware can be extended by threading the threaded-bolt pin outwards, there is some range as to what ceiling heights will work for the slats.

Out of the box, the slats are 240cm or 270cm in length. When following this installation method, the slats require at least 2cm of total clearance and can accommodate a total clearance of up to 4.75cm.

Acceptable Ceiling Heights:
- for 240cm slats:
  - 242cm - 244.75cm (95.3” - 96.36”)
- for 270cm slats:
  - 272cm - 274.75cm (107.1” - 108.17”)
If your ceilings are less than 95.3” (or 107.1” for the 270cm slats) in height, you will need to cut the slats down to length.

Measure Your Ceiling Height: Even if you know your home to have 8’ or 9’ ceilings, ALWAYS measure the exact height before starting your installation. Flooring, drywall, and other factors can impact the exact height of your ceiling, which will impact your installation.

Once you’ve measured your ceiling height, and calculated the required slat length based on the formula below, mark the cutting location(s) on your slats and use a mitre saw or circular saw to cut them to the required length (if needed). Use a track guide or speed square for the straightest cuts.

IMPORTANT CALCULATION:

Ceiling Height - 0.8” (2cm) = optimal slat length (0.8”/ 2cm clearance needed).

For example, if your ceiling is 95” in height, you’ll want to cut the slats down to be 94.2” in length (95 - 0.8 = 94.2).

NOTE: The pre-drilled holes at each end are 4cm deep and 10mm in diameter. The hardware needs 1” (2.6cm) of depth to fit properly, so if you remove more than 0.55” (1.4cm) from either end of the slats, you will need to drill extra depth into the centre hole of each slat with a 7/16” drill bit.

Beginning the Installation: Fastening the Pins & Bolts
1. To begin, use a screwdriver or drill to fasten one spring-loaded pin to the top of each wood slat. Use two (2) of the large screws per slat to fasten the hardware to the wood slats.
2. Repeat this process with the threaded bolt pins, attaching one to the bottom of each slat, so that each slat has one (1) threaded bold fastened to the bottom, and one (1) spring-loaded pin fastened to the top.
3. The slats do not have a distinct top or bottom, whichever you decide to be the top or bottom is your choice. Once each slat has its hardware attached, you can begin laying out where you will install the slats.
Decide on Slat Spacing
- Each slat is 120mm wide. To comfortably rotate the slats 360º, while still having them as close together as possible in the “closed” position, the slats need about 1mm of clearance between them on each side. Given this, the holes for the hardware in your floor and ceiling need to be at least 122mm apart.
- One pre-drilled hole guide is included in each box, and has been CNC drilled with holes exactly 122mm apart to help you drill evenly-spaced holes.
- ALWAYS measure the distance between the holes and ensure they align with the above drawing. While we have rigorous quality control standards to ensure accuracy, slight variations can happen and should be caught before you start drilling using the guide.
- The slats don’t necessarily need to be this close together, you can also install them further apart for more of an “open” installation if preferred. If you prefer to install them further apart, simply decide on the optimal distance between each slat and drill evenly-spaced holes accordingly.
Drilling Floor and Ceiling Holes
1. Start by placing your laser level on the floor and casting a level line from the floor to the ceiling above.
2. Once you’ve decided on the installation location, take the plywood template and place it along the floor (if applicable). Ensure the laser level’s line is running through the centre of the 4 holes. If needed, tape it in place to prevent any movement.
3. Once the template is firmly in place, use a pencil to lightly trace each of the 4 holes on the floor, marking where each of the holes will be drilled.
4. Repeat this process on the ceiling, putting the template in place and lightly tracing inside each of the 4 holes on your ceiling, to mark where the ceiling plates will be placed.
5. To test if your drawn circles are in the right place to create a level installation, you can hold one of the slats in place, aligning the top and bottom pins with their respective circles on the floor and ceiling. You can thread the bottom bolt outwards to elongate it if the hardware doesn’t span the entire ceiling height in its current form.
6. Once the pins are aligned with the circles, use your level to ensure the slat is straight in its resting position. If it’s sitting straight, you can proceed to the next steps. If not, you may have made a mistake. Take a moment to repeat the previous steps to ensure everything’s aligned.
7. Now that the position of the holes in your floor and ceiling has been confirmed, you can begin drilling.
8. The diameter of the pins on the spring-loaded pins (ceiling) and threaded bolts (floor) are both 8.5mm (0.335”).
  1. Therefore, we recommend using an 11/32” drill bit to drill your floor and ceiling holes, as this size of drill bit is about 8.74mm (0.344”) in diameter.
9. Beginning with the floor, carefully drill holes in the floor in the middle of the circles you marked previously. The holes don’t need to be any deeper than 1/6” (4mm).
10. Repeat this process for the ceiling.
Fit the Slats In the Holes

Now that the hardware is inserted into the slats and the floor and ceiling holes have been drilled, you’re ready to finish your installation.

To start, ensure the threaded bolts in your slats are in their shortest position (fully threaded inside the slat).

With the help of another person, fit the bolt inside the first hole in the floor.

Once that’s in place, hold the spring-loaded pin in its shortest position, to allow it to fit inside the ceiling hole.

While holding the pin down, align the pin with the ceiling hole, before releasing the pin into its natural position and allowing it to fit inside the hole.

Using a 13mm wrench, you can now tighten the threaded bolt at the bottom of the slat to push the slat upwards from the floor (if desired).

Repeat this process until your installation is complete!